East of the Postcards: A Fajardo Villa Diary
A couple months ago, I shared that I wanted to visit Fajardo and stay closer to El Yunque National Forest, not knowing that I would get an opportunity to do just that this summer. While I didn’t make it to the forest specifically or much of the area surrounding my villa, I really enjoyed the experience of being outside of San Juan on my third visit to Puerto Rico.
Before You Go: Plan Your Trip to Fajardo
Airport transfer: Fajardo doesn't have its own commercial airport, so you'll fly into San Juan (SJU) and then drive about 40 minutes to get out east. It will definitely be slightly longer if you're landing during afternoon rush hour. Uber does operate in Puerto Rico, but you can also choose a private transfer. Book a transfer →
eSIM: If your phone plan is with a major US carrier, Puerto Rico is domestic coverage, not international roaming, so you won’t need anything extra. If you're coming from outside the US, an eSIM is worth grabbing before you land, since you'll want data for the drive out to Fajardo. Get an eSIM →
Travel insurance: Fajardo's biggest draws like the bioluminescent bay tours and the ferries to Culebra and Vieques get cancelled outright in rough weather or high winds, especially during hurricane season (June–November). It’s worth having coverage that reimburses prepaid tours and activities, not just flights. Compare plans →
A Serene and Secluded Property
The villa was very much tucked away on a hillside surrounded by lush trees and mountains. When I say tucked away, I mean Uber could reach the property but it didn’t show up on the Uber or Apple map. For every car I called, it was very necessary to exchange numbers through WhatsApp, drop a Google pin, and then describe turn by turn how to get there.
What seemed like an inconvenience at first turned into an opportunity to think ahead and arrange my time and resources differently. The very first day, after I was dropped off, I called another car and headed just about 5 minutes back toward San Juan to hit the Walmart for groceries.
Because of my location and the difficulty I anticipated trying to coach a driver through how to get to me and drop me back off at night didn’t seem worth it. I bough enough groceries to fix myself breakfast and dinner each day, plus drinks to stay hydrated, as it was almost unbearably hot while I was there in July.
It’s worth noting that I had no safety concerns, especially because the villa is gated and requires an access code to open the doors.
What’s Possible vs. What I Actually Did
I say often that some vacations are for adventure and thrill and all the things, but for me, this particular vacation was for relaxation. For many personal reasons, I was exhausted by the time I arrived, which meant that a hike through the forest, kayaking a bioluminescent bay, and beach hopping all sounded appealing, but I didn’t have the energy for any of those activities.
Unsurprisingly, I didn’t experience FOMO. I was rather comfortable spending time at a villa all by myself with a pool, my books, and Netflix. I slept in every morning, ate meals that were more like brunch, and spent a good amount of time rewatching episodes of Girlfriends and the new Little House on the Prairie series. Sometimes you need a few days like this, and I have zero regrets about it.
The Property: Casa Esmeralda Fajardo
I’m sure you’ll want to know:
Where is this beautiful property?
This is Casa Esmeralda Fajardo, a twelve person villa with six bedrooms, four bathrooms, kitchen, and a pool. Most of my trips are solo, but while I was there, I found myself thinking about how nice it would be to return with my family. It’s perfect for group vacations if you want seclusion with close access to beaches, snorkeling, a golf course and more.
My Favorite Part of the Property
What I enjoyed most about the property is the lush plant life and the serenity of being in a garden where the occassional butterfly might flutter overhead, a lizard may dash just in front of you as you climb the steps, and as the sun sets, you hear the distinct chorus of coqui frogs ushering nightfall in. It relaxed me to wake up and go to sleep surrounded by stunning views and the sounds of nature that are just a bit different from those I hear at home.
The Thing You Need Most
The great thing about a vacation like this is that you don’t need much, and there is so much room for spontaneity. For the first time in a long time, I did not have an itinerary when I arrived—just vibes.
If you plan to do more than I did and specifically if you are traveling as a group, the most important recommendation I can give is to rent a car. Once you know where the villa is, it’s not difficult to describe the directions from the main road, but it is just far more practical to have your own car. That way you have easier access to any restaurants you want to try or activities you may want to do plus grocery stores if you find you’re missing something you really need.
If you Uber from the airport, get to the villa and decide you might want a car—no worries. There is an Enterprise-Rent-A-Car near the Walmart I mentioned earlier.
Experiencing More from Puerto Rico
If you’ve never traveled solo and want to start or if you’re traveling with a group and want ease, then Puerto Rico is a place I always recommend starting. You don’t need a passport because it’s a US territory, most people speak English, and you don’t have to exchange money or any of the things that sometimes come along with “international” travel.
If you stay in Fajardo, San Juan is not too far to explore and vice versa. You can stay in one town and visit the other as a day trip or take some time to stay in both. There really is quite a bit to do in Puerto Rico, and nothing feels particularly overwhelming or complicated.
Having been three times, it’s also a place I find myself recommending to people who want a relaxing getaway. Of course, you can do the food tours, explore castles, zipline or hike in the rainforest, but you also can have simple and fun beach days or relax by the pool at at a villa and have an equally satisfying experience.
Fajardo doesn't always show up in the postcard version of Puerto Rico. On my third trip to Puerto Rico, I opted for a stay here instead of San Juan. Here's what views looked like, what the days felt like, and what I would tell a friend before they book the same trip.